Home (or somewhere) again

Chris, Teresa, Judy and I were picked up in front of our Pigalle apartment at 5:00AM (actually 4:55AM, but who's counting?).  We got to the airport more than 3 hours before our flight and fought mightily to stay awake until we boarded.  We had a short, uneventful flight to to Dusseldorf, where we again fought mightily to stay awake for 5 hours before our next flight to Newark.  We were flying Lufthansa back, so the food and service were excellent.  We got to Newark, breezed through customs, picked up the car, drove to the Hampton Inn Newark Airport, ate, and crashed.  The drive back to Williamsburg the next day was largely uneventful.  We were home by late afternoon.

Adam's journey was - once again - a bit more challenging.  He and Monica also got to the airport hours before their departure.  The trip to Bogota was OK, but his flight back to the U.S. was delayed.  Bogota Airport shut down it's one runway that is long enough for big, heavily loaded planes.  The only way that Adam's Delta flight was leaving was if they could lighten the load enough to take off on a shorter runway.  It turns out that they accomplished this by leaving all of the luggage behind.  In retrospect, that turned out to be a blessing: had Adam needed to pick up his luggage, he never would have made his New York connection.  As it was, TSA Pre and his Global Entry pass got him thru quick enough to race to the gate.  Our friend Janine picked him up in Richmond, and he was home before us - in time to watch the Redskins crush the Cowboys.

Sorry, Teresa.

And his luggage arrived at our front door first thing this morning.

Dan and Leah got the best deal (at least, in the short term).  They had most of another day in Paris before hopping a flight to Dublin, where Dan will be working for the next couple of months.  By the time we landed in Newark, he'd already posted this on WhatsApp:

"My first Guinness in Ireland"

In any case, we all made it back safely, and that's the important thing.  

Me... I think I'll see if I can locate a Guinness.  Cheers!

Last day in Paris

Today was very laid-back.  Most of us didn’t get out of bed until almost noon.  Judy, Chris and Teresa went out while we were still in bed, made friends with a local purveyor of souveniers, and bought berets (4 for 10 euro) for all the women.  The whole gang didn’t actually get out of the apartment until around 2:00PM.  Leah had read that there was a parade down the Champs-Elysees so we headed that way… not overly optimistic, because we were leaving so late.  But in fact, the party was on and the parade continued.  It included 2 high school bands from the U.S.: one from Riverside CA and the other from somewhere in Ohio.  We had Vin Chaud (hot mulled wine) and various foods at stalls set up along the street.  I got another crepe, but this time it must’ve been buckwheat flour:  I had a reaction to that back when I was a kid in Colorado, and had another one this time.  Scratchy throat with a little swelling, but Leah (who travels with Benadryl and epi pens due to nut allergies) gave me some benedryl and I was good to go in a little while. 

Tiny Pony:  "get this giant off of me!"

Riverside H.S. (CA) band marching down the Champs-Elysees

New Year's Day parade, Champs-Elysees
Are these Budweiser Clydesdales?

Indians playing American songs on bagpipes:
it's a small world after all!

From there, we went back to Notre Dame:  they have stalls along the Seine selling art work.  Unfortunately, they were closing up by the time we got there.  We returned to Pigalle, had some dinner courtesy of Jon (thanks, bro!), did a little more souvenir shopping, and came back to our apartment.

Versailles, Paris by River, and Happy New Year!

Today, we headed for Versailles.  Our plan was to get out by about 9:00 and arrive by the time the palace opened.  In reality, we lit out for the subway station more like 10:20, just missed the RER train (meaning waiting another 20 minutes), and had to disembark from our train a few miles from our destination due to an accident on the track… then wait another half hour for the next train.  By the time we got to the palace, it was nearly noon.  The lines snaked around the large courtyard, and it was another half hour or more before we got in.  It’s a little like an assembly line: there is one entrance and everyone funnels through, pushing and jostling for pictures while staff try to keep you moving (particularly through the king’s and queen’s private chambers).  You work your way through a bunch of opulent rooms, through the hall of mirrors, then through the private chambers, and then you’re out in the courtyard again. 

All that said, it was a beautiful, sunny day – a little blustery, but unseasonably warm for New Year’s Eve.  Versailles is a testimony to the opulent extravagance of the French monarchy during the times of Louis XIV, XV and XVI.  When you see what they built and think about how the peasantry lived, it’s not hard to figure out why the proletariat wanted their heads.

Teresa, Chris, Monica & Adam queued up to get into Versailles

Hall of Mirrors, Versailles

Versailles chapel

Ho hum... just another room in Versailles

Even in winter, the gardens of Versailles are quite spectacular, and they go on forever:  no sense of crowding here!  We had planned to regroup to leave at 3:00, but decided to stick around for another hour.

Versailles gardens

"let them eat cake" - Marie Antoinette

We headed back to a jam-packed train station around 4:00.  There, we learned that our City Pass tickets would not cover the return journey (they were good for zones 1-3 only, and Versailles is in zone 4).  We queued up in huge lines for the ticket machines, and those lines weren’t moving.  I saw another line for what looked like either a help desk or face-to-face ticket sales booth.  It was 4:50 by the time I got to the front of the line and learned that we didn’t need tickets at all after 5:00 because the entire public transport system was free from 5:00 – 1:00 on New Year’s Eve.  So we queued up with the masses, listened as the crowd counted down to 5:00, then rushed the gates with everyone else.  We got on the first train at 5:20 and were even all able to get seats together in one of the first cars.

We got off again at the Eiffel tower: our City Passes were good for a river tour down the Seine on Bateaux Parisiens.  We arrived less than ½ hour before departure time and had no trouble getting on.  After a long day of walking and lines, a leisurely hour-long cruise was a great way to unwind. Paris by river gives you a very different view, and by night, it’s spectacular.  Our cruise took us from the Eiffel tower past the Place de Concorde, L’Assembles Nationale, Le Musee D’Orsay, around Ile de la Cite (city island, home of Notre Dame) and Ile St. Louis), then back up the river to our starting point.  The mood on the boat was particularly festive, perhaps because it was New Years Eve, or perhaps simply because ti was loaded with happy tourists and a beautiful Parisian night. 

Notre Dame from the Seine

Fresh off the batteau

Afterwards, we crammed onto a subway (remember, they were free) and headed back to the apartment to regroup for dinner.  We’d decided to stay in the neighborhood for a very late dinner to see in the new year, and went to a local Brasserie around the corner.  I swear, this was the best meal that any of us have had in France.  Adam got onion soup and we both got escargot as starters, while most of the others had fresh salad with a creamy Dijon dressing.  Chris and I had incredibly tender and perfectly cooked saumon (salmon) with a very subtle Bearnaise sauce.  Leah, Monica and Adam had canard confit (duck leg cooked in its own fat) that melted in your mouth (I took a taste).  Judy had scallops prepared in provencal style: I don’t know what the sauce was, but it was really good too.  Teresa had spaghetti carbonara with a raw egg yolk on top that she said was fantastic.  We shared some crème brulee and crème caramel around the table along with some carafes of wine.  We returned to the apartment for a champagne toast to bring in the new year, then stayed up while Dan and Leah serenaded us.  What a great way to ring in the new year!

New Year's Dinner (one block from our apartment)

Happy New Year! (L to R):
Teresa, Leah, Judy, Jim, Adam, Monica, Dan, Chris

Back to Paris

I arranged to keep our car for an extra day, making for a more leisurely trip back to Paris.  This trip up A6 was far less eventful and we were able to run at highway speeds pretty much the whole way until we got pretty close to Paris.  Driving in Paris was a different story altogether, complicated by the fact that our GPS was about 2 minutes behind once we got into the city.  Adam pulled out his phone and we used the GPS on that to guide us to our Air B&B (over the protests of the voice on our car GPS).  By luck, we got parking right across the street from the apartment we're in, and were able to unload and unwind for a bit before returning the car (another adventure in driving).  Adam guided us in again, and we found the parking garage we were supposed to return the car to adjacent to Montparnasse station, where we'd picked it up.  Ironically, this was the first place where we had clearance problems: the roof of the van pinged most of the light fixtures we went under.

From there, we grabbed some dinner on the way to a Metro station.  Dan wasn't feeling well, and he and Leah returned to the apartment.  The rest of us headed up to Place de la Concorde, the eastern end of the Champs-Elysees. Also, as it turns out, where they beheaded Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI..

Place de la Concorde, Champs-Elysees

Place de la Concorde, Champs-Elysees

Arc de Triomphe

Obelisk, Place de la Concorde (Eiffel Tower in the distance)

The Champs-Elysees is all decked out for the holidays.  There's another huge Ferris wheel on the Place de la Concorde, and temporary clapboard shops selling everything from hats and mittens, to jewelry, to crepes and mulled wine lining both sides of the avenue.

We got separated for awhile, which was another adventure.  We are able to use our U.S. phones at pretty exorbitant roaming charge prices, so everyone is keeping their phones off... which is a problem if you really need to contact someone.  But we found each other and got back to the apartment.

We are staying in northwestern Paris very close to the Pigalle station and within a stone's throw of the Moulin Rouge.  The apartment itself is a beautiful Parisian flat, with high ceilings and elaborate moldings and fixtures... that looks like it is owned by some frat boys.  That said, there are 4 large private bedrooms and it works well.

The next morning, we headed downtown to pick up our Paris passes, which give us access to pretty close to everything: museums, all public transportation, Versailles, hop on/hop off buses, a river cruise, and much more.  They are quite pricey, but have the added advantage of getting you into the short lines at some venues.  We enjoyed that (a lot) when we went to the Louvre in the afternoon, but in the morning we started off with a hop on/hop off bus tour to get oriented.  We got off at the Eiffel Tower, in part because it was the Eiffel Tower, and in part because we got hungry.  The tower is really impressive, and there's a festive mood around it.  And some tasty street food.  I had a crepe with cheese and chicken.  Judy had a taco bowl stuffed with lettuce, shredded chicken, and... french fries?  Seriously, they seem to be really into french fries here, and most are not that impressive.  Or particularly suitable to the dish, in this case.

Eiffel Tower, up close & personal

One of 4 statues  on the corners of Pont Alexandre III
(bridge spanning the Seine)

From the Eiffel Tower, we crossed the Seine and went up to the Louvre. And we really did get into the short line, which I'm guessing must've saved us at least 1/2 hour and probably much more.  It is truly overwhelming: there are galleries in 3 separate buildings linked by a subterranean plaza underneath I.M. Pei's famous glass pyramid.  After a couple of hours, we'd barely scraped the surface on a single floor of a single building... but we did get to check the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo off of our bucket lists.

Venus de Milo

Atrium of the Louvre

After that, we hopped back on the hop on/hop off bus... as much to rest our feet as to get the tour... and got off at Plaza du Trocodero, directly across the Seine from the Eiffel Tower.  After eating, we crossed the Pont d'lena bridge back to the tower, under the impression that our passes would let us go up (preferably in an express line).  Bad news: this is one thing the pass isn't good for.  Good news: the lines were short.

I really thought it would be bigger...

Champs-Elysees and Place do Concorde from the top of the Eiffel Tower

At 17 euro per ticket, Dan, Leah, Adam and Monica weren't particularly interested. Chris and Teresa really wanted to go, so we parted company.  Judy and I went with Chris and Teresa, and the others went back to the Champs-Elysees, which Dan and Leah had missed the night before.  We agreed to meet at the Ferris Wheel at 11:00, which turned out to be a bad agreement: we weren't able to get back there until 11;30, by which time the others had left. But we all got back to the apartment OK.  Tomorrow (God willing)... Versailles.

A day trip to vineyards and wandering Lyon

Here's where we're staying in Lyon:

We're the blue dot on the map, between the Saone and Rhone.

We went back to the parking garage, me full of trepidation that we might not exit without scraping the roof off the van.  We got out, but not with more than about an inch to spare.  We headed north out of town, avoiding toll highway A6 for the most part in favor of the French countryside.  Our goal:  taste some local French wines.  We headed into the Mâconnais subregion of Burgundy, and the towns of Chaintré, Fuissé, and Solutre-Pouilly.  Because of the holidays, our choices were very limited, but we identified two vineyards:  Domain Mathias in Chaintre, and Domaine Jean-Pierre Sève in Solutre-Pouilly, a few miles down some narrow, twisty roads in the hills of southern Burgundy.

Vineyards in this area are particularly known for their Pouilly-Fuissé wine.  "What is that, besides the name of two towns?", you may ask.  Let's consult Wikipedia:

Pouilly-Fuissé (French pronunciation: ​[pu.ji fɥi.se]) is an appellation (AOC) for white wine in the Mâconnais subregion Burgundy in central France, located in the communes of Fuissé, Solutré-Pouilly, Vergisson and Chaintré. Pouilly-Fuissé has Chardonnay as the only grape variety.

Our first stop was Domaine Mathias.

Domaine Mathias

Tasting room, Domaine Mathias

Tasting room, Domaine Mathias

Tasting room, Domaine Mathias

While they do make Pouilly-Fuissé chardonnay (and it's good), Domaine Mathias also makes some good (and affordable) reds and rose's.  We picked up one of each.

The vines of Domaine Jean-Pierre Sève are now in their fourth generation of management under the Sève family.  They have 18 1/2 acres of exclusively Chardonnay grapes, and their wine is very good.  While we lean toward reds, we picked up 3 vintages of their Pouilly-Fuissé here.

We returned to Lyon and spent the rest of the day basically walking and eating... but most of us did take an evening spin on the Ferris wheel at Place Bellecour.

Ferris Wheel, Place Bellecour, Lyon.

We then crossed the Saone again to revisit the old part of town, where supposedly there are some "catacombs," really subterranean paths between the various streets that are accessible by simply pushing on unmarked doors.  So we wandered around pushing on unmarked doors, to no avail until it was time to eat again.  Our dinner was probably the best I've had in France thus far.  Judy and I both started with a goat cheese salad, a main of fish (looked like cod, perfectly seasoned) with potatoes and veggies, a lemon tart, and a carafe of local red wine... all for about 40 euro.  Fortunately, we're walking more every day than I typically do in a week.

To seat the 8 of us, the waiter took us down a winding stone staircase to the cellar, adding another cool little bit of ambience.  Here we are:

Second dinner in Lyon.  In a cellar.

You don't eat quickly in France.  We were there for well over 2 hours and left after 10.  Then back to our apartment to get ready for a new day.

The Journey Thus Far

Until a couple of years ago, I was pretty good about tracking my travels via a blog.  Got out of the habit, and find that it's really hard to remember the details if you don't take notes.  So I'm going to try to recapture that discipline.  This is a catch-up on the journey so far.

The Big Surprise

The story starts (for me, at least) on my 60th birthday, November 21st.  My parents and brother Charlie came down from Springfield, which was a treat.  Son Dan and his wife Leah flew in from Seattle for the festivities, which I thought was my big surprise.  It wasn't.

The family chose dinner at the Blue Talon (country French cuisine), and brought the presents to open there.  A beret.  A baguette and a bottle of French wine.  A video collection of Pepe Le Pew cartoons. A Lonely Planet Guide to France.  At this point, I get that France is somehow in the picture.  What I totally didn't get was that all 3 of my sons and their wives would be joining Judy and me in Paris: we would leave the USA Christmas Eve and arrive on Christmas day.  From there to Lyon, then back to Paris, then home on January 2.

The entire family had been hatching this since mid-summer.  Chris, his wife Teresa, Judy and I would rent a car in Williamsburg, drive to Newark Airport, and fly from there at 6:30PM on Christmas Eve.  Dan and Leah would fly direct from Seattle (first class) on Dan's frequent flyer miles (a modest repayment for the hassle of commuting weekly between Seattle and the East Coast for over a year).  and arrive about an hour after Chris, Teresa, Judy and I.  Dan also got Adam a frequent flyer ticket to Bogota to meet his wife Monica.  They would fly together to Paris, joining us a few hours later.  We'd go to the 7:00 PM Christmas day service at Notre Dame Cathedral.  The next morning, we'd hop on a train to Lyon for a couple of days, then back to Paris for the remainder of our trip.  Then Adam would fly to Richmond by way of Bogota (to get Monica back to Colombia).  Chris, Teresa, Judy, and I would fly back to Newark via Dusseldorf, then rent another car back to Williamsburg.  Dan and Leah would fly back to Seattle.   Later, that changed to flying to Dublin for a consulting assignment.  So Dan and Leah were packing for a season, not for a week.

What could be simpler?

The Tribulations

Adam and I were up late the Friday before the trip (December 18th).  Our conversation turned to the trip and he said - jokingly - "you know, you and mom had better check that your passports are still good!"

We did.  Both of ours expired November 24th.

I spent 3 hours on the phone Saturday with the good folks at the Passport office.  We would be able to get an immediate expedited passport provided that Judy and I could be at the Passport Office in Philadelphia at 8:00AM on December 23.  We booked a hotel room across the street from the Customs House (home of the passport office), switched the rental car over to Chris and Teresa, and made plans to drive Teresa's car to Philly, get the passports, spend another night at the hotel, drive to Newark, put Teresa's car in long-term storage, and meet them in the airport.  Then we'd all come back from Newark in Teresa's car.

We also discovered that the cost of train tickets from Paris to Lyon had gone through the roof: if the eight of us could get tickets on the slow train, it would cost a total of over $1,200 round trip.  I got online to look at car rentals.  I found a company that claimed that their van could seat up to 9 people plus luggage for $579 for 3 days.  My past experience renting in Europe suggested that we'd double that when you add in insurance and surcharges, but we booked it anyway.  We would drive to/from Lyon, which would give us the latitude to do a little more touring in the area.

What could be simpler?

Actually, the passport acquisition/Newark journey part worked surprisingly well.  It took a long time to get to Philly on the 22nd, but we got there.  The hotel was a really nice boutique hotel 2 blocks from Independence Hall and right across the street from the Passport office.  It took longer to get through Customs House security than to get through the passport application process.  We were out by about 9:30, visited the Liberty Bell, toured Independence Hall, had some lunch, and picked up the passports at 1:30.  It was rainy but the temperature was in the 60s, and the drive to Newark on the 24th was the easiest trip I've ever taken on the Jersey Turnpike.  We all got to Newark early enough to have dinner before converging on the airport with way more than ample time before our flight.   The flight itself was uneventful and reached Charles de Gaulle Airport on time.


Here's the absolutely not simple part.  Adam called us while we were waiting to get into Independence Hall.  Monica would need proof that she could return to Colombia, and that round-trip ticket and hotel reservations weren't enough.  Specifically, she would need proof (in cash) that she had 100 euros for each day that she was out of the country.  Adam would have to come up with about 1,000 euros in cash in the next couple of hours, before leaving for the airport to meet Monica in Colombia.  Grandparents Jan and Orlin floated him some cash to cover.

The next phone call from Adam was from Richmond airport.  His flight was delayed by bad storms up and down the east coast, and he would not be able to make his connection to Bogota... which meant that he wouldn't be able to meet Monica with the cash, and that they'd miss their flights to Paris.  Adam called super-traveler Dan, and he texted that they were working on "Plan B."  Dan worked the websites and phones to figure out any way to get from somewhere near Richmond to Bogota via any connections.

The next call was that Adam would need to buy another last-minute ticket - this time, from Washington D.C. to Fort Lauderdale... assuming that that flight would leave, and D.C. was under the same weather system.  That flight was already dangerously delayed to 10:30, and flights tend to cancel as they approach midnight take-off.

Among many next calls was one from Chris, who was headed to Richmond to get Adam, drive him 2 1/2 to 3 hours to D.C., turn around, come home, pack, and then drive to Newark to meet us.  Another was from Teresa, who said that Chris had been up since 5AM and there had to be another way.  If there was, nobody figured it out.

Chris, Teresa, Judy and I, waiting for our flight in Newark

Somehow, Chris got Adam, navigated bad traffic and bad weather to Reagan National Airport, got home, got packed, got a few hours sleep, and got to Newark with Teresa in one piece.  We got a text from Adam around 10:30 PM that he had boarded the flight to Fort Lauderdale, followed by a text that the flight was leaving.  Then a text that he was on the plane to Bogota.  We got another text on the way to Newark that he'd landed in Bogota and was waiting for Monica.  We got a final text that the French government (represented by Air France) was appeased when he bought Monica travel insurance for another $130.  And nobody asked Adam to produce all the cash he'd emptied from his bank account.

Before leaving, Adam set up a group chat on WhatsApp, a text service that lets you chat by wifi anywhere in the world for free.  Chris, Teresa, Judy and I got on as soon as we reached Charles de Gaulle airport to tell the rest that we'd arrived.  By the time we'd cleared immigration and had our luggage, we'd had a reply from Dan and Leah that they'd arrived, but at a different terminal.  We found them quickly, then spent way too much time trying to figure out how we'd get to the hotel.  At the end, we decided to get a couple of cabs, whatever the cost... and it turned out that one of the cabbies had a van that would hold all 6 of us and our luggage.  We got to the hotel, dropped luggage, got some lunch, wandered down to Notre Dame (a few blocks away), then back to formally check in and crash for awhile.  Adam and Monica found their way to the hotel and we had a wonderful (and frankly, improbable) reunion.  God is good!



Paris, Part 1

We decided to rest for a little while and ended up getting to Notre Dame well after the start of the church service.  Nonetheless, we were able to get through security and get in about halfway through the sermon.  It was a pretty impressive experience.

Notre Dame Cathedral, Paris

Christmas Day Service, Notre Dame

Afterwards, we had a terrific (and surprisingly affordable) meal just across the Seine at a restaurant called Le Metro.  Most of the guys got roast duck, and it was delicious.  Our waiter was friendly with a wry sense of humor, which capped off the experience.  We returned to the hotel, had some wine in the lobby, and finally went to bed around 1:00AM (or was it 2:00?).

Le Metro (site of first dinner in Paris)

Christmas Dinner at Le Metro

Lyon, Part 1

Nobody woke up in the morning.  I think Judy and I were first out of bed around 9AM, and we probably all really needed that sleep.  Judy, Adam and I went to get the car from the train station around 11:30, and were surprised to find a HUGE car that really would hold all of us, and comfortably.  We were wise enough to pay for GPS, but not wise enough to know that it doesn't work worth squat in the city.  By the time we found our way back to the hotel and got everyone loaded up, it was around 1:30.  Traffic to Lyon was horrible: what should have been a 4 1/2 hour trip was more like 7 1/2, with the last hour trying to find the Air B&B that we'd rented.  We dumped everyone off, then Adam, Dan and I spent another hour trying to navigate to the parking garage the owner had directed us to.  And then, trying to get the van - which I swear didn't have more than 1" ceiling clearance - through the gate and into a parking space.  We have not moved it since, and frankly I am terrified to try to exit that garage.  May need to let air out of the tires to gain an inch of clearance...

Adam, Monica and Leah in our Lyon appartment

Today was pretty laid back - just a lot of walking.  We are staying in a fifth floor walkup with three adjoining apartments, each with a bathroom and kitchenette, and sharing a washing machine.  It's located just off Place Carnot in the Perrache district, between the Saone and Rhone Rivers and just north of where they converge.

After breakfast in the apartment, we walked north on Rue Victor Hugo to Place Bellecour, a large plaza with a big Ferris wheel.  It's Sunday, and pretty much everything is closed.  We walked west and crossed the Saone on the Pont Bonaparte, then took a funnicular up to la Basilique Notre Dame de Fourviere, an amazing basilica overlooking the city.  There are two chapels stacked on top of one another.  You can see a couple of pictures below.

Notre Dame de Fourviere

Upper Chapel, Notre Dame de Fourviere

Lower Chapel, Notre Dame de Fourviere

Notre Dame de Fourviere (top of hill, upper left) from the Bonaparte Bridge

Afterwards, we worked our way down the hill (see picture below).  Leah had been advised by a friend who had lived in Lyon that we must eat at a Bouchon-Lyonnaise restaurant, and there were many choices in the old city, on the west bank of the Saone.  Most of us ordered from one of three "price points" for a three-course meal consisting of entree (in France, a starter) plate (main course), and desert.  I had Salade de museau de porc (pig snout salad), followed by Gateau de roies de volaille au coulis de tomates et basific (chicken liver cake in tomato sauce with au gratin potatoes and some veggie), ended with panna cotta (kind of like a cheese cake, but more liquid and topped with raspberry preserves.  Actually, really good (even the pig snout salad, which had a delicious dijonnaise  dressing).

"It's a long way to the top if you want to rock and roll."
- Bon Scott

Our first Bouchon restaurant.  Pig Snout Salad.

Most of the rest of the evening was spent window-shopping.  Our restaurant is on a walking arcade full of restaurants, sweets shops, and other things that are fun to look at (and eat).  Ultimately, we worked our way back across the Saone to our apartment, for salad, wine, and good conversation... oh, and blog-writing.

Everyone wants to try to visit a beaujolais vinyard tomorrow.  I'll let you know if we get the van out of the garage.  Happily, I paid for extra collision insurance.